Rachel Dozier-Ezell

so recently i came across this site when i realized all my show files were at work. At home we got a new computer (the last one died will all my info!) so i didn’t have access to them right away. looking for a quick measurements sheet i came across this lovely ladies design portfolio and she includes some templates. i wanted to put it up to share if others are in need or find themselves without access to their usual files. http://www.tollefsondesigns.com/costumes/handbook.html of course there are other sites with this info and you can create your own. i’m wondering if any other costume designers would find it helpful to have an ap for their phones for measurements and quick reference sheets?

A while back i posted links on where to look for design jobs, thought i would add this. Found this through worn through.com

Job Search Websites

stylecareers.com
• Types of Jobs: Any and All in apparel (q quick search of visual merchandising positions on 4/14 resulted in over 75 position positings)
• Cost for full access: None but you must register to apply for jobs through the website
• Information available: generally full job descriptions, some employers include information on applying directly to the company

jobs.wwd.com
• Types of Jobs: All fashion career jobs
• Cost for full access: None
• Information available: generally full job descriptions, link to the employer website, some employers include information on applying directly to the company

fashionjobstoday.com
• Types of Jobs: Retail
• Cost for full access: 1.99/4 days, 19.95 Month to month, 49.99 for 6 months, 69.99 for 16 months
• Information available without full access: Can see new job postings and a brief description, but are not able to apply.

us.fashionjobs.com/jobs/index.php
• Types of Jobs: Fashion Jobs of all types
• Cost for full access: None
• Information available: generally full job descriptions, link to the employer website, some employers include information on applying directly to the company

uk.fashionjobs.com/jobs/index.php (UK regional search of fashionjobs.com)
• Types of Jobs: Fashion Jobs of all types
• Cost for full access: None but must register
• Information available without full access: generally full job descriptions but cannot apply without registering

fashion.net
• Types of Jobs: PR, marketing, retail
• Cost for full access: None
• Information available: generally full job descriptions, link to the employer website, some employers include information on applying directly to the company

fsrl.co.uk
• Types of Jobs: Retail, design, production, wholesale, visual merchandising, PR/marketing, international, product development, etc.
• Cost for full access: None, just have to register
• Information available without full access: You can see job listings, but cannot apply unless you register with the site.

theretailtool.com
• Types of Jobs: varied – all types
• Cost for full access: must register to post your resume
• Information available without full access: job description, must register to post your resume in order to apply for jobs

fashion-jobs.biz
• Types of Jobs: Marketing, Creative, Fashion, Retail
• Cost for full access: 39.95
• Information available without full access: job postings and descriptions, cannot apply and descriptions do not include the name of the employer

fahsionindustrynetwork.com
• Types of Jobs: Retail Buyer, Management, Styling
• Cost for full access: none – it links you to apparelsearch.com/employment.htm

dailyfashionjobs.com
• Types of Jobs: Fashion jobs and internships
• Cost for full access: None, this is a blog that writes about job and internship opportunities
• Information available: whatever the blog writer includes, usually job description and contact info for employer

apparelsearch.com/employment
• Types of Jobs: mid price department stores, athletic stores, shoe stores
• Cost for full access: None
• Information available: Directs you straight to the companies page.

couturestaff.com
For those with some experience. This is how couturestaff.com describes the service:
“Welcome to the World of Luxury Brand Candidates and Careers that we see every day.
Couture Staff is a One of a Kind Boutique Staffing Agency. Our focus is on Executive Recruitment for High End Fashion, Accessories, Jewelry and Watches, Handbags and Cosmetics. Whether you are in Corporate, Retail, or Wholesale, our mission is to pamper your search with everything you want, everything you need and, most importantly, everything you deserve!”

thefashioncareersclinic.com
Career services and job posting site for designers

jessilynpersonnel.com
Definitely geared to the design/production side of fashion

fashionunited.co.uk/career_centre

fashioncareercenter.com

fashionjobsearch.com

fashionmarketingjobs.com

mayorofthemall.com

creativejobscentral.com

fashionjobsite.com

workinretail.com

clothingindustryjobs.com

http://www.vogue.it/en/vogue-starscelebsmodels/focus-on/2011/01/sylvia-nolan-costume-design

This may be an old link, but I have always admired the work and sheer volume of pieces built and constructed at the met and wanted to include this. I came across this yesterday while just looking up who was on staff there currently. It’s always great to see visuals. enjoy.

I’m currently designing Trojan Women. I have 21 women including named characters and chorus. They are in hospital gowns w/ detention center identification stamped on them, prisoner numbers tattooed on their inner left calfs, and bruising, etc. and they are in socks. The stage is to look like a once great palace burned down to rubble. I didn’t want them in shoes or slippers. I wanted them to look like their former clothes were stripped from them and this is what was issued. Socks were the next best thing to me besides bare feet. We decided against bare feet because of the rubble on the platforms. But the rubble is rubber bits so it’s still comfortable to maneuver in socks. That being said as the rubble moves around they have more area to slip. So I decided to make the socks non slip. Since my budget can not afford buying each female non slip white socks. I decided to make them. It’s really simple, so I thought I would include
Pics And a brief description. cost: about $30.00

start by pairing all socks (these were kmart special and i tried all them on the ladies first)

make a template to put inside sock (don’t forget left and right), this template i made out of leftover foam board we had in the shop. This helps to let the fabric paint dry and helps you see your surface area. Don’t cover the whole area you still need it to be able to stretch to the shape of the foot.

insert templates

start to apply in desired design. i like puff paint as my medium cause its machine washer and dryer safe and holds up best for laundering.

i did a zigzag dot pattern then went back and added small dots for extra coverage.

the socks drying now wait till tomorrow and take them in with me. overall it took about an hr 30. i just turned on some this american life and went to town assembly line style. and i’m so lucky to have my expandable antique dining room table to be able to do large projects. thanks betsy! (my mother in law)

and these are my fur babies that were absolutely no help in any of this. ah to be a cat.

For the current show I am designing, Trojan Women, I am giving one of my characters a scar. I wanted something that could be recently fresh and had dimension, looked deep, and was most importantly easy for the actor to do himself or with limited help (large cast of 30!) once taught. So after doing some research I found a product i haven’t used before. It’s called Rigid Collodion and available online in various sizes and from different manufacturers. I am able to get it locally from most Halloween and specialty makeup supply stores.  A simple Google search lists local and online suppliers. I found this video on YouTube helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IatpF_jEJKs&feature=player_embedded   i liked how thorough and helpful this guy was.

How to use it:

• Draw out the scar with a red lip liner, lightly etching out the shape. (the color or shade of liner you use will determine the freshness of the scar), add any other bruising or shadowing you want for desired effect.
• Apply on top of the makeup the rigid collodion and let dry (takes about 30sec to 1mn for each layer)
• Keep applying to create a deep scar (about 10 for good gashing)
• Apply translucent powder to take down the shine
• Add and shading (highlights and shadows) or bruising if needed.
• Finish with a final powdering.

After doing this (all of which took like 5 mn application and drying time, doing only 3 layers) This is what it looked like:

this product peels off easily but you can also use spirit gum remover if using applications within a run so you don’t lose fresh skin.

Thank you to my lovely intern Janelle Abbott for volunteering her face for this demo. She was lovely! (lately i’ve been trying different bruising, blood, make-up techniques on her including zip ties on her hands and hooding her, poor gal, i’m sure she’s thinking “this job just got really weird” ha ha) but I so appreciative of her willingness to partake in my demos.

up next will be bruising and blood……stay tuned.

I learned at the beginning of this week that that someone I worked with when I was just beginning in costumes during my first summer stock job had passed away. Paul Favini was a wonderful designer and also a wonderful person. I borrowed this from a friend and decided to post it because I liked what it said: http://russelldeanschultz.com/advice-from-a-master-paul-favini/. I remember that I was working on my first costume design the summer before the fall and Paul helped me to free up my drawing and also helped me with my portfolio as well; helping me to know what people looked for. I feel i’m still doing all of those things, but he was the first besides my mentor John Owen Franklin (who also passed away from cancer the summer of 2008) to show genuine interest and care towards helping me to prepare for academia and beyond. Also Last Week we lost designer Eiko  Ishioka. I did not know her personally (She passed from cancer as well) but I have always admired her work (whether I was aware or not) here is a great tribute to some of her amazing work. http://www.buzzfeed.com/donnad/a-tribute-to-eiko-ishioka.

Recently, I was asked by a past student what are some other jobs he can use his costume degree and skills to do when he doesn’t have design opportunities available. He like myself has a strong technical background as well. So looking through my CV and thinking of odd jobs I compiled this list for him. It began:

Student,

Being a new yorker, and dealing with the large amount of living costs and inflation, and rent, and blah blah blah insert more boring info on the high cost of living in new york city (we have talked in depth on this)….I have started thinking about all the random jobs I have had where I was paid for my services. Let me start by saying often I find when you meet someone new here you go through the usual, what do you do? often you’ll hear ” iI work (insert money job here) but i also do this (insert random or fun job)” or you get a series of “oh i do (7-10 ) different jobs”. As a young designer, I often take other jobs in the field or in the “art realm” jobs so far the jobs have been as follows:

• costume shop management
• assistant design work
• shopper for costume houses or designers (also includes swatching)
• first hand for costume houses
• working art installations or with artists who need sewing
• freelance alterations
• developing costumes for burlesque or circus performers
• draping for commercials
• crafts artisan
• writing about costumes in magazines or encyclopedias
• re purposing old couches, making drapes or cushions and other scenic sewing
• styling for photo-shoots/head shots
• bridal work
• make-up special effects application and design
• hair styling/ wig styling
• wardrobe (my least favorite! and I avoid like the plague!)
• teaching
• alterations/stitching/draping for commercials
• mask and craft work

I know there are so many more categories that I haven’t had the chance to work in. Can anyone add stuff that they have done and how they got them? Much appreciated.

While killing time looking at images on pinterest (my new obsession) I came across this image for baby announcements, it was from someone’s etsy page who made baby crowns. I immediately thought, wow those would make a great theatrical piece, just increase the circumference and what a great intricate crown. So I am writing to remind myself next time I have need for a crown to try this method i’m sure with some tweaking and additions you could come up with something wonderful, add some headliner foam, or some wire, starch, paint, embellish, gesso, etc. so there it is. And I know some great places to find really detailed and amazing lace in NYC.

this is just something quick and funny i saw:

http://xaxor.com/funny-pics/35298-Funny-keeping-a-zipper-up-tip.html

instructions for keeping up a zipper pull on pants, we have all faced this problem. no time to replace the zipper? do this, it works, also a hair tie or small rubber band looped through works just as well.

While rearranging my costume shop and doing some much needed cleaning and sorting, my lovely intern Janelle asked me a good question. We were sorting ties and she looked at me and asked “Why do we wear ties?” I knew some reasons and the evolution of the neckwear but was stumped, so I did what I always do told her I didn’t know but, I wrote it down to look up later. After much searching this seems to be the most common answer:

http://www.croatians.com/tie.htm

If you clicked on the link you would have found, in short, it originated from Croatian soldiers and their uniform worn in battle around the thirty years war, the French saw it, liked it, and popularize it. Go figure…. Some other popular answers include: early roman orators wearing a form of tie/neckwear to keep vocal cords warm, obvious labor work reasons (having it around your neck provided a handy hanky to wipe away debris and sweat, etc.), to wipe blood off one’s sword….basically practical uses…
Other interesting facts:
Beau Brimmel (think regency period) deems neckwear as a form of individualism
Cool book called neckclothitania (ways in which to tie a cravat)
Clinton’s tie made headlines cause it was from a certain white house intern
To touch another man’s cravat is dueling terms
And last the steinkirke came from sloppiness an unprepared soldiers caught with not enough time to dress

On a fun side note, Croatians are also known for knotting the worlds biggest tie. Go figure…

Got anything to add? Fun facts? Cool ties? Sources?